---
title: "Oven not heating"
description: "Frigidaire oven not heating — two complaints wear one title, and separating them saves a visit."
url: "https://frigidairemiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/"
date_modified: "2026-09-08"
Appliance type: "oven, range"
---


# Frigidaire oven not heating

### What to do in the next ten minutes

Put an oven thermometer on the middle shelf, set 350°F, and read it after twenty minutes. Write the number down. On an electric range check both halves of the breaker; on a gas one, look through the vent at the back of the cavity while it preheats and see whether the igniter glows and whether a flame follows it.

### The measurement that decides everything

An oven that reaches 300°F when set to 350 is not the same appliance as one that reaches 150, and the parts are different. Most owners describe both as ‘not heating properly’, which is why the first thing we ask for is a number from a thermometer that is not the oven’s own. Twenty minutes and a five-dollar dial thermometer routinely save a visit here.

### Why gas igniters fail slowly

A gas oven’s igniter does two jobs: it lights the gas, and the current it draws is what opens the safety valve. As it ages it draws less, and there is a period — sometimes months — where it glows brightly, opens the valve slowly, and the oven takes half an hour to preheat. It looks like it is working, which is exactly why it is the part we measure rather than inspect.

The bake element or the igniter

An element that has failed open, or a gas igniter too weak to open the valve. On gas the igniter usually still glows, which is why it gets replaced last instead of first.

The temperature sensor

The oven heats to what it believes is right and stops. Everything works and the food does not cook.

The door is leaking heat

A tired gasket or a dropped hinge. The cavity cycles constantly and never settles at temperature, with nothing electrically wrong.

Thermometer on the middle shelf

The number is the diagnosis. A guess is not.

Watch a gas preheat through the vent

Glow with no flame is an igniter; flame that goes out is a sensor or a valve.

Check both breaker legs on an electric range

One leg gone leaves the broiler or the bake dead and the panel alive.

It stays cold, or never gets near the temperature you set

What it usually means

Stone cold and never-hot-enough are different repairs

On gas, a weak igniter gives slow heat rather than no heat — the classic misdiagnosis

An oven thermometer is the cheapest diagnostic tool in the kitchen

What to do in the next ten minutes

Put an oven thermometer on the middle shelf, set 350°F, and read it after twenty minutes. Write the number down. On an electric range check both halves of the breaker; on a gas one, look through the vent at the back of the cavity while it preheats and see whether the igniter glows and whether a flame follows it.

The measurement that decides everything

An oven that reaches 300°F when set to 350 is not the same appliance as one that reaches 150, and the parts are different. Most owners describe both as ‘not heating properly’, which is why the first thing we ask for is a number from a thermometer that is not the oven’s own. Twenty minutes and a five-dollar dial thermometer routinely save a visit here.

Why gas igniters fail slowly

A gas oven’s igniter does two jobs: it lights the gas, and the current it draws is what opens the safety valve. As it ages it draws less, and there is a period — sometimes months — where it glows brightly, opens the valve slowly, and the oven takes half an hour to preheat. It looks like it is working, which is exactly why it is the part we measure rather than inspect.

### The broiler works but the oven does not.

That is useful: it means the supply and the control are fine and the bake element or its relay is the suspect. Say it when you book.

### It started after a self-clean cycle.

Common. Those cycles are hard on the sensor, the door lock and the control, and something that was marginal often does not survive one.

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