FrigidaireRepair Miami

Appliance

Frigidaire cooktops

Thirty-one cooktops, near enough evenly split: 12 gas, 11 electric radiant and eight induction. Dropped into a worktop, they are the appliance most likely to be damaged by something other than a problem — a cracked ceramic top from a dropped pan, a spill that has reached the switches, a burner cap put back wrong after a clean. The genuine failures are the elements and their switches on radiant, the igniters and valves on gas, and the coils, fans and power board on induction.

  • 2 symptoms we are called out to
  • From $89 diagnostic, credited to the repair
  • 59 cities and neighborhoods covered
  • OEM parts available on order

The short version

What this equipment is, for a repair

Configurations

Gas · electric radiant · induction

Access

Planned before the visit, not discovered on arrival

Parts

OEM, available on order

Diagnostic

From $89, credited to the repair

What goes wrong with it

Each one covers the likely causes in the order they are worth checking, and what to do in five minutes before booking anything.

  • One burner of a stainless gas cooktop with its cast grate lifted off and set beside it, the burner cap sitting visibly askew on the burner head and no flame anywhere.
    It clicks and clicks, or lights and goes straight out

    Gas burner will not light

    Mostly mechanical and mostly free to correct: a burner cap put back a few millimeters out after cleaning, a blocked port, or an igniter still wet from a boil-over. The pattern tells us which — one burner or all of them, clicking or silent, lighting then dying — and each of those points somewhere different.

    • A cap out of position after cleaning is the commonest cause of all
    • All burners clicking at once is one stuck switch, not four failures
    • Lighting then going out is the flame sensor or the valve, not the igniter
    What it usually means
  • A stainless pan of water standing on a black ceramic induction cooktop with the zone beneath it plainly unlit and the pan no longer steaming, a drawer beneath the counter pulled slightly open and packed full.
    It beeps, or a zone stops working part way through cooking

    Induction zone turns itself off

    Frigidaire sells twelve induction ranges and eight induction cooktops, so this is ordinary work rather than an exotic call — and most of it turns out to be the pan or the cooling rather than the hob. An induction zone stops for three reasons: it cannot see a suitable pan, it is too hot inside, or the power board has genuinely failed.

    • Most 'failures' are cookware: the base must be ferrous and cover enough of the zone
    • Induction makes its heat in the electronics, so its cooling fan matters
    • One zone dead and the whole hob dead are different parts
    What it usually means

What we do on it

Starting figures for this equipment in South Florida. The exact cost is confirmed after an on-site diagnostic — and this is not the whole list of what can go wrong, so call if your problem is not here.

  • A multimeter and a small open notebook with a pen lying on a dark quartz counter beside an appliance whose panel is dark, a hand writing.
    from $89

    Diagnostic visit

    We find out what is wrong before anybody quotes a part. On this make the first thing established is age, because the badge sells the appliance that came with the apartment and we open machines at every stage of life — a two-year-old range and a fifteen-year-old washer in the same building. The fee comes off the bill when you go ahead with the work, and where the answer is that the repair is not worth doing, you get that answer plainly and it is still the same fee.

    • Age and model first: this badge is repaired at every stage of life
    • The number before the work, in writing, and it is credited toward the repair
    • Where the machine is not worth fixing we say so instead of selling a part
    What this involves
  • A rolled tool mat opened on a dark tile floor in front of a refrigerator pulled out from the wall, a torch, a brush, a vacuum crevice tool and a meter laid out on it in a row.
    from $119

    Appliance maintenance

    The work that stops the calls we would otherwise be taking in August: condensers cleared, dryer ducts checked, dishwasher filters and seals looked at, water lines and shut-offs confirmed. In this climate maintenance is not a formality — a condenser that breathes dust in a Miami summer is the single most preventable refrigeration failure, and a dryer duct that nobody has cleaned is the most preventable fire risk in the apartment.

    • Condenser, seals, ducts, filters and shut-offs, on the machines that have them
    • Written down: what was cleaned, what was measured, what is starting to go
    • Booked for several appliances in one visit, which is how it is worth doing
    What this involves
  • A wrench on the adjustable foot of a newly delivered washing machine with a spirit level lying on top of the cabinet, cardboard and packing strapping pushed to one side.
    from $139

    Appliance installation

    Fitting a new machine properly and leaving the old one gone: level, connected, tested and checked for the things that cause a call-out three weeks later. On this badge most of what we install is freestanding or slide-in, which is straightforward — and the two that are not, a wall oven in a column and a beverage cabinet built into a run, are exactly where a bad installation shows up later as a repair.

    • Level, connected, tested — and the old machine taken away
    • Water, gas and vent connections left right, not just left working
    • Built-in cabinets get a clearance check, which is where later problems begin
    What this involves
  • A green control board lifted out of an appliance and laid on a gray antistatic mat, two ribbon connectors still trailing back into the opening, relays and a large capacitor across it.
    from $245

    Control board repair

    The board is the part most often blamed and least often to blame. A machine that is dead, resetting, or ignoring half its own panel usually has a supply problem, a failed sensor or a connector that has corroded in this humidity — and all three imitate a failed board convincingly. We measure what reaches the board before quoting one, because on this badge a board is frequently a large share of what the appliance is now worth.

    • Measured before it is quoted: supply, sensors and connectors first
    • Humidity corrodes connectors here, and that looks exactly like a dead board
    • On an older machine the board is compared with the value of the appliance, out loud
    What this involves
  • A spark igniter and a burner head lying apart on a folded towel on a cooktop, the empty burner base and its orifice visible beside them.
    from $155

    Gas burner and igniter repair

    A burner that clicks and will not light, lights and then goes out, or burns yellow and uneven. On this badge's 31 gas ranges and 12 gas cooktops the causes are mostly mechanical and cheap: a cap seated wrongly after cleaning, a blocked port, a wet igniter. The electrical failures — a failed igniter or a switch stuck closed so every burner clicks — are the rest.

    • A cap out of position after cleaning is the commonest cause of all
    • All burners clicking at once is a switch or a wet igniter, not four failures
    • A yellow flame is attended to promptly, not lived with
    What this involves
  • A flat RADIANT COIL ELEMENT unhooked from its bracket and lifted a few inches beneath a raised ceramic cooking top in a dark kitchen, its two leads stretched, the empty reflector pan below it.
    from $165

    Electric cooktop element repair

    One zone dead, a zone stuck on full, or a radiant element that cycles far too quickly. On these cooktops the switch and the element fail about equally often, and there is a third candidate nobody thinks of: the receptacle a plug-in element sits in, which burns at the contacts and looks like a dead element from above.

    • Element, switch or receptacle — the third one is the one that gets missed
    • A zone stuck on full is a switch, and it gets attended to quickly
    • Radiant elements are tested cold, not by watching them glow
    What this involves
  • A cracked smooth black ceramic cooking top lifted clear of its counter opening and turned on edge against a padded blanket, the empty frame below showing FLAT RADIANT COIL ELEMENTS in their reflector pans.
    from $245

    Cooktop glass replacement

    A cracked or shattered ceramic top, usually from a dropped pan. The glass is replaceable and the price is mostly the part — but a crack is not only cosmetic: it lets liquid reach the elements and the switchgear underneath, so the assessment is of the whole appliance rather than the panel. A cracked top over a live element is not something to keep using.

    • Replaceable, and the price is mostly the glass
    • A crack lets liquid into the elements below — the assessment covers the whole appliance
    • Stop using it in the meantime: this one is a safety matter
    What this involves
  • The flat spiral of an induction coil under the lifted glass top of a cooktop, its ferrite bars and the board beside it, the glass propped clear.
    from $185

    Induction cooktop and range repair

    Twelve induction ranges and eight induction cooktops are current products under this badge, so induction here is ordinary work rather than an exotic call. Most of what gets reported as an induction failure turns out to be the cookware or a dirty surface sensor; the real failures are the cooling fan, the power board and the coil, and they behave quite differently from a radiant hob.

    • A real part of this catalog: 12 induction ranges and 8 cooktops
    • Most 'failures' are the pan or a dirty sensor, and we check those first
    • Fan, power board and coil are the genuine failures, and they announce themselves differently
    What this involves

In more detail

About Frigidaire cooktops

Three technologies in one product name

A gas cooktop is a set of burners, igniters and valves; a radiant cooktop is elements under glass with switches or a touch board; an induction cooktop is a set of coils, an inverter and a substantial cooling system. They fail in different ways and are diagnosed with different instruments, and about a third of Frigidaire's cooktop line is induction — so on this make it is worth saying which one you have when you book.

The failures that are not failures

More than on any other appliance we attend, cooktop calls end with something other than a broken part: a burner cap seated a few millimeters out, a pan that induction cannot see, a control lock nobody knew was on, a spill that dried into a touch panel. We would rather find that in ten minutes and tell you than sell you a board, and the diagnostic is credited toward the repair if there turns out to be one.

This article is based on:

  • Official manufacturer documentation
  • Internal repair procedures
  • Technician repair history
  • Company quality standards

Before you book

Questions about Frigidaire cooktops

The glass has cracked. Can it be replaced?

Usually yes, and the cost is mostly the glass itself. What matters is what the crack did on its way — a cracked ceramic top can let liquid into the elements and the switchgear below, so the assessment is of the whole appliance rather than the panel. Stop using it in the meantime: a cracked top over a live element is not a risk worth taking.

The induction hob beeps and shuts off after a minute.

Most often it is not seeing the pan — the base must be ferrous and must cover enough of the coil — and that is a cookware answer rather than a repair. Where the pan is right, the causes are the cooling fan, an overheat sensor or the power board, and they are told apart by which zones fail and how quickly.

A gas burner lights but the flame is yellow and uneven.

Usually a blocked port or a burner cap out of position after cleaning, both of which are quick. Where it is neither, we look at the gas pressure and the orifice — and a yellow flame is worth attending to promptly rather than living with, because incomplete combustion is not something to leave in a closed kitchen.

Tell us the model number and what it is doing.

Call (305) 615-5496