FrigidaireRepair Miami
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46 jobs · 11 appliances

What we actually do, job by job rather than by the hour.

Every page says what the work involves, what moves the figure, and what the visit is like on this make. The starting figures are on the page for the job, not hidden behind a form.

Book a diagnostic (305) 615-5496
  • 46 jobs written up
  • 11 kinds of machine
  • from $89 diagnostic, credited to the repair
  • Every one is a from, never a final price

The work, in full

Every job we have written up

Each one carries what the work involves, the figure it starts at, and what the visit is actually like on this make.

  • A multimeter and a small open notebook with a pen lying on a dark quartz counter beside an appliance whose panel is dark, a hand writing.
    from $89

    Diagnostic visit

    We find out what is wrong before anybody quotes a part. On this make the first thing established is age, because the badge sells the appliance that came with the apartment and we open machines at every stage of life — a two-year-old range and a fifteen-year-old washer in the same building. The fee comes off the bill when you go ahead with the work, and where the answer is that the repair is not worth doing, you get that answer plainly and it is still the same fee.

    • Age and model first: this badge is repaired at every stage of life
    • The number before the work, in writing, and it is credited toward the repair
    • Where the machine is not worth fixing we say so instead of selling a part
    What this involves
  • A rolled tool mat opened on a dark tile floor in front of a refrigerator pulled out from the wall, a torch, a brush, a vacuum crevice tool and a meter laid out on it in a row.
    from $119

    Appliance maintenance

    The work that stops the calls we would otherwise be taking in August: condensers cleared, dryer ducts checked, dishwasher filters and seals looked at, water lines and shut-offs confirmed. In this climate maintenance is not a formality — a condenser that breathes dust in a Miami summer is the single most preventable refrigeration failure, and a dryer duct that nobody has cleaned is the most preventable fire risk in the apartment.

    • Condenser, seals, ducts, filters and shut-offs, on the machines that have them
    • Written down: what was cleaned, what was measured, what is starting to go
    • Booked for several appliances in one visit, which is how it is worth doing
    What this involves
  • A wrench on the adjustable foot of a newly delivered washing machine with a spirit level lying on top of the cabinet, cardboard and packing strapping pushed to one side.
    from $139

    Appliance installation

    Fitting a new machine properly and leaving the old one gone: level, connected, tested and checked for the things that cause a call-out three weeks later. On this badge most of what we install is freestanding or slide-in, which is straightforward — and the two that are not, a wall oven in a column and a beverage cabinet built into a run, are exactly where a bad installation shows up later as a repair.

    • Level, connected, tested — and the old machine taken away
    • Water, gas and vent connections left right, not just left working
    • Built-in cabinets get a clearance check, which is where later problems begin
    What this involves
  • A green control board lifted out of an appliance and laid on a gray antistatic mat, two ribbon connectors still trailing back into the opening, relays and a large capacitor across it.
    from $245

    Control board repair

    The board is the part most often blamed and least often to blame. A machine that is dead, resetting, or ignoring half its own panel usually has a supply problem, a failed sensor or a connector that has corroded in this humidity — and all three imitate a failed board convincingly. We measure what reaches the board before quoting one, because on this badge a board is frequently a large share of what the appliance is now worth.

    • Measured before it is quoted: supply, sensors and connectors first
    • Humidity corrodes connectors here, and that looks exactly like a dead board
    • On an older machine the board is compared with the value of the appliance, out loud
    What this involves
  • Meter probes on a terminal block behind the lower rear panel of a refrigerator pulled out from the wall. This make publishes no code for a warm cabinet, so the page is a measurement and so is the photograph.
    from $139

    Refrigerator not cooling repair

    A cabinet that runs and will not hold its temperature. On the top-freezer and side-by-side machines that make up most of this catalog there is very little on the panel to read, so this is an hour with instruments in a fixed order: the free causes, then the air path, then gauges. It is the visit where the age of the cabinet matters most, because the same symptom on a three-year-old French door and a fifteen-year-old top-freezer leads to two different recommendations.

    • Instruments rather than a code lookup — these cabinets explain very little
    • The free causes close more of these calls than any part fitted
    • Refrigerant work is quoted only after gauges, never on the symptom alone
    What this involves
  • The inner rear panel off to show the evaporator coil packed solid with frost and the glass heater rod along its foot. Both halves of the diagnosis in one frame: the ice, and the part that should have cleared it.
    from $159

    Defrost system repair

    Frost where there should be none, a coil in a block of ice, or a cabinet that cools for a few days after every service call and then drifts again. Frost-free refrigeration has a heater, something that decides when to run it, and a drain to take the meltwater away — and in South Florida all three work harder than they were designed to, because every door opening lets in air that is carrying water.

    • Heater, thermostat or sensor, and the control that decides between them
    • This climate loads the defrost circuit harder than the design assumed
    • A blocked drain is part of the same system and is checked in the same visit
    What this involves
  • A small plastic fan blade lifted off its motor shaft inside an opened freezer back panel, the motor still in its bracket behind, ice around the housing.
    from $149

    Evaporator fan repair

    The fan behind the rear wall of the freezer moves the cold air that the fresh-food side depends on, so when it stops the freezer often looks fine and the refrigerator does not. It is one of the few refrigeration problems with an audible warning — a chirp, a rattle or a grinding that comes and goes with the door switch — and catching it at the noise stage is cheaper than catching it after a week of warm food.

    • A warm fresh-food side with a cold freezer points here first
    • Noise that changes when the door is held closed is the giveaway
    • Ice around the blade is a defrost problem wearing a fan's clothes
    What this involves
  • The base grille of a refrigerator removed and leaning against the cabinet, a coil brush and a vacuum nozzle worked in among the black condenser fins behind it, a grey mat of dust drawn out onto near-black tile.
    from $109

    Condenser cleaning

    The cheapest thing that can be done to a refrigerator in South Florida, and the one most often skipped. A condenser matted with dust and pet hair cannot reject heat, so the compressor runs longer, the cabinet drifts in the afternoon and the machine ages years in a summer. On a garage freezer or a beverage cabinet built into a cabinet run it matters more still, because the air around them is warmer to begin with.

    • The most preventable refrigeration failure there is in this climate
    • Long run times and afternoon drift are the symptoms it fixes
    • Worth booking with other work rather than alone
    What this involves
  • A refrigerator door swung wide in a near-black kitchen with the magnetic gasket peeled back out of its channel along one side by a putty knife, the empty channel visible and a new coiled gasket lying on a folded towel on the floor.
    from $129

    Door seal replacement

    A gasket that has hardened, torn or stopped pulling the door shut lets warm wet air into the cabinet all day. In Miami that shows up as sweating along the door frame, ice building at one corner of the freezer, and a compressor that never rests — and the seal is one of the few parts on a refrigerator where age alone is a good enough reason to replace it.

    • Sweating on the frame and ice in one corner are the usual signs
    • Seals die faster here: they never fully dry between openings
    • Cheap next to what a leaking door does to run time and food
    What this involves
  • A length of flexible tubing being fed into the drain trough at the bottom of an evaporator compartment ... a shallow tray under the machine.
    from $129

    Refrigerator leak repair

    Water under the crisper, water on the floor, or ice building in the bottom of the freezer. This is the most common refrigerator call we take in South Florida, and it has three usual causes that are told apart by where the water is: a blocked defrost drain, a water supply connection, or a door that is not sealing and letting the room condense inside the cabinet.

    • Where the water is decides which of three causes it is
    • A blocked defrost drain is the commonest by a distance in this climate
    • Water at the back of the cabinet is a supply problem, not a defrost one
    What this involves
  • Two hands turning a cylindrical water filter cartridge into its housing inside the top of a refrigerator compartment, the old cartridge lying on a towel on the counter below.
    from $105

    Water dispenser and filter service

    Slow water, no water, a filter that will not seat or a dispenser that has started to taste of something. The circuit is short — supply, shut-off, filter, valve, tank, line, dispenser — and the answer is usually in the first half of it. On a French door or side-by-side cabinet this is also the circuit behind most 'no ice' calls, so the two get looked at together.

    • One short circuit behind both the water and most of the ice complaints
    • A filter past its date changes flow, taste and cube size at once
    • A frozen tank in the fresh-food compartment is a temperature problem, not a plumbing one
    What this involves
  • A chest freezer standing in a dark garage with its lid propped fully open, two wire baskets lifted out onto the concrete beside it, a multimeter lying on the closed half of the lid with its face turned away.
    from $139

    Upright and chest freezer repair

    Standalone freezers in this climate mostly live in a garage or a utility room, which is the single most useful fact about repairing them: they are being asked to work at an ambient the cabinet was never rated for. An upright is frost-free and fails in the interesting ways — defrost, fan, control; a chest freezer is manual defrost and usually fails at the thermostat, the seal or the lid.

    • Ambient first: a garage in August is not the room the cabinet was designed for
    • Upright failures are defrost and air; chest failures are thermostat, seal and lid
    • A freezer running warm announces nothing, so the visit starts with measurement
    What this involves
  • An ice maker module lifted out and set on a folded towel, its harvest arm and gearbox to the camera, the empty bracket behind. This make publishes no condition for an ice maker at all, so the module itself is the only honest subject.
    from $139

    Ice maker repair

    The module inside the refrigerator: no ice, hollow cubes, a bin frozen into one block, or a dispenser that grinds and delivers nothing. Half of these calls end on the water side rather than in the ice maker itself, which is why the first questions are about the filter and the dispenser rather than about the module.

    • Half of these end at the filter, the valve or the fill tube
    • Hollow or small cubes are a flow story, not a freezing one
    • A bin frozen solid points at compartment temperature or a door seal
    What this involves
  • A gloved hand holding a warm cloth around the small white fill tube at the back of a freezer wall, a plug of ice half melted at its mouth.
    from $119

    Ice maker water line and fill valve service

    The supply half of the ice circuit, and the half that fails most: the shut-off at the wall, the line behind the cabinet, the filter and the inlet valve with its two solenoids. It is also the half that causes water damage, so a line that is old, kinked or made of the wrong material gets said out loud whether or not it is today's problem.

    • The shut-off, the line, the filter and the valve — in that order
    • A weeping valve behind a cabinet is a slow leak nobody sees for months
    • Old plastic supply lines get flagged whether or not they are today's problem
    What this involves
  • A small stainless countertop ice-making machine on a light counter with its lid open and its water reservoir emptied, a gloved hand lifting the ice basket clear and a soft cloth beside it.
    from $99

    Countertop ice machine service

    Frigidaire's standalone ice makers are three countertop machines — a reservoir you fill by hand, a pump, a set of chilled fingers and a basket the machine does not keep frozen. They fail in small-appliance ways, and we are straightforward about the economics: scale, a pump or a sensor is worth doing, and a sealed-system failure on a machine of this class usually is not.

    • A countertop appliance, not a plumbed cabinet — this badge builds no undercounter machine
    • Scale, pump priming and the full-basket sensor cause most of it
    • We say when a repair is not worth the money instead of taking it
    What this involves
  • A measuring jug of pale solution being poured into the open reservoir of a small countertop ice machine on a light kitchen counter, a bottle of white vinegar and a soft brush standing beside it, the machine's basket out and drying on a cloth.
    from $89

    Ice machine descaling

    Soft, cloudy or slow ice on a countertop machine, or a cycle that has become long and noisy. Scale is the ordinary enemy of these appliances here, and the routine is the maker's own: a descaling solution through the water path, a rinse cycle, and the reservoir and pump cleaned by hand. It is maintenance rather than repair, and doing it twice a year is the difference between a machine that lasts and one that does not.

    • The commonest cause of slow, soft or cloudy ice on a countertop machine
    • The maker's own routine, not a household improvisation
    • Twice a year in this water is the honest interval
    What this involves
  • The rear panel of a narrow freestanding beverage cooler removed and leaning against a wall, showing a small finned heat sink and a fan behind it, a multimeter lying on a folded towel on the pale tile floor beside the cabinet.
    from $135

    Wine and beverage cooler repair

    Seven cabinets in this catalog, and they are single-zone beverage centers and wine storage rather than the dual-zone cellars the luxury makes sell. Most of what we attend on them is thermal rather than mechanical: a glass door in a warm kitchen, a cabinet built into a run with nowhere for its heat to go, a seal that has hardened. We check the installation before we quote a part, because on this appliance it is the answer often enough to matter.

    • Single-zone beverage and wine cabinets, not multi-zone cellars
    • Installation and clearance explain more of these calls than parts do
    • Afternoon drift with a fine night-time temperature is a room story
    What this involves
  • A gloved hand peeling the black rubber gasket back from the frame of a glass beverage-cooler door standing open, condensation fogging the inside of the pane, a small spirit level lying across the cabinet top.
    from $115

    Wine cooler door and seal service

    Condensation on the inside of the glass, a door that no longer pulls itself shut, or a cabinet that has started to run continuously since somebody loaded it fully. Glass doors, small hinges and a warm humid room are a combination that puts most of the wear on the door rather than on the machine behind it.

    • Condensation, a sagging door and a seal that has hardened
    • A full rack changes the geometry of a small door more than people expect
    • Cheap to correct and expensive to ignore: the compressor pays for a leaking door
    What this involves
  • A dishwasher lying tipped back on a blanket with its lower access panel off and the drain pump housing exposed on the underside, the pump held in one hand.
    from $129

    Dishwasher drain and pump repair

    Standing water in the bottom of the tub after every cycle. On these machines the cause is more often something caught than something failed — the filter, the sump, the check valve, or the connection under the sink that a plumber left blocked. We look at those before quoting a pump, and we show you the filter, because on this make it is a two-minute job you can then do yourself.

    • The filter and the sump before the pump, always
    • The blockage is often under the sink rather than in the machine
    • We show you the filter so the call does not repeat
    What this involves
  • A finger tracing a wet line along the bottom edge of an open dishwasher door where the seal meets the tub, a dark puddle on the tile below.
    from $139

    Dishwasher leak repair

    Water on the floor in front of the machine, under the cabinet, or appearing only during one part of the cycle. Where the water shows up and when decides the job: the door seal and the vent at the front, the supply and drain connections at the back, and the pump seal and float underneath. A dishwasher leak that has been running for weeks is also a cabinet and floor problem, and we say so.

    • Where and when it appears decides which of three areas it is
    • A door that leaks at one corner is usually alignment, not the seal
    • Long-running leaks damage the cabinet: that gets pointed out, not hidden
    What this involves
  • A lower spray arm unclipped from a dishwasher and held up against a work light so the row of small jets shows as points of light, a toothpick clearing one of them.
    from $109

    Dishwasher not cleaning service

    Dishes coming out gritty, cloudy or with detergent still in the cup. Almost always water not reaching the dishes rather than water not being hot enough: blocked spray arms, a filter that has been in place for a year, a tall item interrupting the upper feed, or a supply that is arriving cold. In this water, scale and rinse aid are a bigger part of the story than detergent brand.

    • Arms, filter and inlet before anybody talks about a heater or a board
    • Loading and water hardness explain a real share of these calls
    • Detergent still in the cup is a dispenser or a blocked arm, not a bad tablet
    What this involves
  • The latch at the top of a dishwasher door and the strike it closes into, the door held an inch open so both halves read. A latch that reports open intermittently is the machine that sometimes runs and sometimes does not.
    from $125

    Dishwasher door and latch repair

    A machine that will not start because it does not believe the door is shut, a door that falls open instead of staying where it is put, or a latch that has to be leaned on. The latch is a safety switch as well as a catch, so this is one of the few dishwasher complaints where the machine is right to refuse.

    • The latch is a safety switch: a machine that will not start may be correct
    • A door that falls open is springs or cables, not the latch
    • Alignment after a cabinet or countertop job is a common cause
    What this involves
  • The drying vent in the inner face of an open dishwasher door with its cover unclipped and lifted aside, the small flap and its actuator visible in the recess.
    from $165

    Dishwasher drying and heat repair

    Nothing dry at the end of a cycle, or plastics wet while the china is fine. It is worth knowing that Frigidaire's plainer machines dry by holding heat rather than by blowing air, so damp plastic is close to normal and a dry load is helped more by rinse aid than by any setting. Where nothing at all dries, the heater, the vent flap or the thermostat is genuinely at issue.

    • On the plainer machines damp plastic is the design, not a failure
    • Rinse aid changes drying more than any button on the panel
    • Nothing drying at all is the heater, the vent or the thermostat
    What this involves
  • A dishwasher on its back with the base cover off and the drain pump lifted clear of the sump on a gloved hand, the impeller housing turned to the camera. The impeller is where the glass ends up, which is the story this page tells.
    from $165

    Washer drain pump replacement

    A machine that fills, washes and then sits full. On the older Frigidaire front-loaders that make up most of what we open here, the pump is behind a filter trap that almost nobody has ever emptied, and a coin, a hairpin or a child's sock is as likely as a failed pump. We open the trap first — it costs nothing and it ends a good share of these calls.

    • The trap before the pump: coins and socks outnumber failed pumps
    • A pump that hums without moving water is jammed, not dead
    • The drain hose and the standpipe are part of this, especially in a condominium
    What this involves
  • The door lock unit of a front-load washing machine drawn out of its cutout in the front panel and hanging on its wiring loom, the rubber boot folded aside, a torch on the floor lighting the opening from below.
    from $139

    Washer door lock repair

    A front-loader that will not start, will not unlock, or stops mid-cycle with the door light flashing. The lock is a safety interlock and the machine will not run without it, so this is another case where a refusal is the appliance being right. On older machines the lock is also one of the parts that has genuinely worn out rather than failed suddenly.

    • The machine is refusing on purpose: the lock is an interlock
    • Mid-cycle stops with a flashing door light point here first
    • On older machines this is wear, not a sudden failure
    What this involves
  • The lid of a white top-load washing machine held raised while the lid lock housing hangs out of its cutout in the cabinet rim on its wiring loom, the short metal striker pin on the underside of the lid directly above it.
    from $129

    Washer lid switch and lid lock repair

    A top-loader that fills and will not agitate or spin, or one that stops as soon as the lid is touched. On the machines this badge sold in volume the lid switch is a small mechanical part in a wet environment, and it is one of the most common single failures on an older top-load washer anywhere in South Florida.

    • Fills but will not spin, on a top-loader, points here before the motor
    • A small mechanical switch in a wet place — ordinary wear on an older machine
    • The strike on the lid matters as much as the switch in the frame
    What this involves
  • A washing machine pulled out from the wall and its upper rear panel removed, the water inlet valve drawn out of the cabinet on its bracket with both braided supply hoses unscrewed and hanging down into a shallow tray, a hose wrench lying on the floor beside it.
    from $129

    Washer water inlet valve repair

    No water, water only on one temperature, a machine that fills slowly, or one that keeps filling when it is switched off. The valve is two solenoids and two screens in one body, and the screens block with the scale and grit that come with older buildings. A machine that fills when off is the one to attend to quickly — that is a flooded floor waiting for an unattended night.

    • One temperature working and the other not is the valve, not the tap
    • The inlet screens block with scale and grit from older plumbing
    • Filling while switched off is urgent, not an inconvenience
    What this involves
  • Two hands setting the front leveling foot of a white top-load washer with an open-ended wrench, a short spirit level lying across the lid with its bubble visible, the machine pushed out from a bifold laundry closet in an apartment.
    from $185

    Washer not spinning and balance repair

    A load that comes out soaked because the machine gave up on the spin, or a spin that walks the machine across the floor. Balance failures are the appliance protecting itself, so the useful question is why it cannot balance: the load, the level, the suspension, or on a front-loader the bearings that are on their way out.

    • The machine is protecting itself; the question is what it cannot balance
    • Level and load first, suspension and bearings second
    • A walking machine in a condominium is a neighbor problem as well as a laundry one
    What this involves
  • A large flat magnet rotor lifted off the back of a washing machine's outer tub ... the ring of stator windings still bolted to the tub behind it.
    from $245

    Washer motor and drive repair

    A drum that does not turn, turns in one direction only, or turns while the machine screams. On the belt-driven machines this badge sold, a belt and an idler are an ordinary repair; on the direct-drive machines it is the rotor, the stator or the control that drives them. Which one you have decides both the price and whether the job is worth doing at all.

    • Belt and idler on the older machines, rotor and stator on the newer
    • A drum that turns by hand with resistance is a bearing, not a motor
    • The price gap between the two designs is wide and is quoted before work
    What this involves
  • The cabinet of a top-load washing machine opened up with two of its four suspension rods unhooked at the top and swung clear of the outer tub, a socket wrench resting across the frame, the basket dark below.
    from $275

    Washer bearing and suspension repair

    The rumble that rises with the spin and eventually becomes a grinding you can hear through the wall. On a front-loader the outer tub is often a sealed assembly, so a bearing is a large job with a large part — and it is the repair where we most often advise an owner to put the money toward a new machine instead. We give you both numbers and let you choose.

    • A rumble that rises with spin speed and gets worse every week
    • On many front-loaders the tub is sealed and the part is most of the machine
    • This is the repair we most often advise against, with the numbers to show why
    What this involves
  • The spring clamp sprung off the front of the rubber boot and the lip folded back from the frame, the drum dark behind. The boot is the first place a front-load leak is looked for and the one an owner can check.
    from $145

    Washer leak repair

    Water on the laundry-room floor, and the first job is finding where it comes from rather than which part to fit. Front of the machine points at the door seal or the glass; the back points at hoses and the inlet; water only during drain points at the pump, the clamp or a standpipe that is backing up. In a condominium a shared stack is a real possibility and gets ruled out before the machine is blamed.

    • Where the water is decides everything that follows
    • A door seal in this climate never dries and eventually perishes at the fold
    • A shared stack backing up is checked before the machine is condemned
    What this involves
  • A tall one-piece stacked laundry unit pulled forward from its closet with its central control panel band removed and a loom of wiring drawn out of the gap.
    from $155

    Stacked laundry center service

    Frigidaire's laundry centers — a washer with a dryer above it in one cabinet — are common in South Florida apartments because nothing else fits the closet. They are two machines sharing a control panel and a frame, and the practical difference is access: there is no room at the sides, the drum is at head height, and the vent is usually behind the cabinet. Half of what makes these visits longer is the closet rather than the machine.

    • Two machines in one cabinet, and no service access from the sides
    • The vent behind a closet-mounted center is the commonest dryer complaint
    • Access is planned before the visit, which is why we ask where it lives
    What this involves
  • The coiled heating element in its open metal can lifted out of the back of a dryer and held level, the empty duct opening behind. The element and the duct in one frame, which is the order this page insists on.
    from $139

    Dryer not heating repair

    No heat at all, or clothes that come out warm and damp. The first thing we establish is whether the machine is failing to make heat or failing to move air, because in South Florida the second is far more common and no part fitted will fix it. Where it is genuinely heat, an electric machine and a gas machine are two different repairs.

    • Airflow before heat: it is the commoner answer here by a distance
    • A thermal cutout that has opened is a symptom, and we find out why
    • Electric and gas are different visits — tell us which you have
    What this involves
  • A coiled dryer heating element drawn out of its sheet metal housing and laid across the top of the machine, the empty housing dark behind.
    from $165

    Dryer heating element replacement

    The element on an electric dryer, which fails open and leaves a machine that tumbles cold. It is a straightforward part with a wide channel behind this badge — and it is also the part most often replaced for the wrong reason, because a blocked vent burns elements out and will burn out the new one too if the duct is not dealt with in the same visit.

    • A cold tumble on an electric machine, with the cutouts tested first
    • A blocked duct kills elements — the vent is part of this repair
    • Wide parts channel: this is usually a same-visit job
    What this involves
  • A small ceramic igniter on its bracket held in front of an opened gas dryer burner tube. The igniter is the commonest gas dryer repair there is, and the open burner tube behind it is the sequence you listen for.
    from $169

    Gas dryer igniter and valve repair

    A gas dryer that tumbles cold, or one that lights and goes out again after a few seconds. The sequence is igniter, flame sensor, coils and valve, and each has a distinct failure that sounds the same from the laundry room. This is gas work and it is finished with the checks that gas work is finished with, not with a hand held over the drum.

    • Igniter, flame sensor, coils, valve — one sequence, four distinct failures
    • Lighting then dropping out is usually the sensor or the coils, not the igniter
    • Finished with proper gas checks, every time
    What this involves
  • A long flexible rod brush fed into the round duct in the wall behind a pulled-out dryer, a heaped mat of grey lint on the dust sheet beneath. The heap is the point.
    from $119

    Dryer vent cleaning

    The single most useful thing that can be done to a dryer in South Florida, and the one job here that is a safety matter rather than a convenience. A duct that is long, bent and full of lint makes a healthy machine look broken, doubles cycle times and is a genuine fire risk. In apartment buildings the run is often shared and longer than anybody realizes.

    • Doubles cycle times when it is bad, and it is a fire risk when it is worse
    • Building runs are long, shared and rarely cleaned
    • Measured before and after, so the difference is a number
    What this involves
  • Gloved fingers drawing an alcohol pad along the two metal sensor strips just inside the front of a dryer drum near the lint screen opening, a clean band showing behind the pad, the drum otherwise empty and dim.
    from $105

    Dryer moisture sensor service

    Automatic cycles that stop with the load still damp, or run to the maximum every time. The sensor is two metal strips in the drum that read the resistance of wet fabric, and they get coated by fabric softener until they cannot read anything. It is a five-minute clean far more often than it is a part, which is exactly why it is worth booking rather than living with.

    • Cycles that end damp or never end at all point at the sensor
    • Fabric softener film is the usual cause, not a failed part
    • Often a clean rather than a repair — and we will tell you that
    What this involves
  • Drum rollers and the belt off a dryer.
    from $175

    Dryer drum, belt and roller repair

    Squealing, thumping, or a drum that has stopped turning while the motor runs. Dryers give more warning than any other machine in the house — the noise starts weeks before the belt goes — and a machine caught at the noise stage is a straightforward job with common parts.

    • The noise is the warning: caught early this is a simple repair
    • A running motor with a still drum is a broken belt, and it is not urgent to force
    • Rollers, idler and belt are replaced together because they wear together
    What this involves
  • A bake element unbolted from the floor of an oven cavity and drawn forward a hand's width on its two leads, held in a gloved hand, the cavity dark behind and one work light raking in from the open door.
    from $149

    Oven not heating repair

    An oven that stays cold, or one that heats to something well short of what it was set to. On an electric cavity that is the bake or broil element, its relay, or the sensor the control is reading; on gas it is the igniter, which fails by drawing too little current to open the valve properly and produces weak, slow heat rather than none at all. Both are ordinary jobs with parts that are usually on the van.

    • Cold and 'not hot enough' are two different diagnoses
    • On gas, a weak igniter gives slow heat rather than no heat — the classic misdiagnosis
    • The sensor is measured, not guessed at, before a control is quoted
    What this involves
  • A slim oven temperature probe unclipped from the cavity wall and laid alongside a dial oven thermometer on the middle rack, the door open. The probe against an independent measurement, which is exactly how this service is proved.
    from $115

    Oven temperature and calibration service

    Baking that has gone wrong without anything obviously failing: cakes that sink, a cavity that runs twenty degrees under, a machine that was fine until it was moved. Most of these are the sensor or the calibration, and both are cheap to establish. It is also the visit where we find out that a new oven is behaving correctly and the recipe was written for an old one.

    • Cheap to measure and often not a failure at all
    • A sensor reading high is the commonest single cause
    • Ovens can be offset in software; not every complaint needs a part
    What this involves
  • An oven door lifted off the range and stood upright against a blanket on the floor, both hinge arms locked open, the empty hinge slots in the frame behind it.
    from $165

    Oven door and hinge repair

    A door that will not close flush, has dropped on one side, or whose glass has gone cloudy from the inside. A leaking door costs heat on every bake and is one of the reasons an oven 'runs cool' with no electrical failure at all. On a wall oven at chest height it is also a weight-handling job rather than a quick fix.

    • A leaking door is a common cause of an oven that runs cool
    • Hinges are replaced in pairs — one worn side drags the other
    • On a wall oven this is a two-person lift, planned in advance
    What this involves
  • The top trim of an oven frame removed to expose the motorized door latch and its switch, the latch arm half across its keeper, a small screwdriver and the removed trim lying on a towel over the open door.
    from $149

    Self-clean and door lock repair

    A door locked shut after a cleaning cycle, or a cycle that will not start because the lock will not engage. It is one of the more alarming things an oven does and one of the more ordinary to repair: the cavity has to fall below a threshold before the lock will release, so a sensor reading high keeps a perfectly good door shut indefinitely.

    • A locked door after cleaning is usually a temperature reading, not a seized lock
    • Forcing it costs more than the visit: hinges and lock assemblies are dear
    • Self-clean is hard on these ovens, and we say so
    What this involves
  • A spark igniter and a burner head lying apart on a folded towel on a cooktop, the empty burner base and its orifice visible beside them.
    from $155

    Gas burner and igniter repair

    A burner that clicks and will not light, lights and then goes out, or burns yellow and uneven. On this badge's 31 gas ranges and 12 gas cooktops the causes are mostly mechanical and cheap: a cap seated wrongly after cleaning, a blocked port, a wet igniter. The electrical failures — a failed igniter or a switch stuck closed so every burner clicks — are the rest.

    • A cap out of position after cleaning is the commonest cause of all
    • All burners clicking at once is a switch or a wet igniter, not four failures
    • A yellow flame is attended to promptly, not lived with
    What this involves
  • A flat RADIANT COIL ELEMENT unhooked from its bracket and lifted a few inches beneath a raised ceramic cooking top in a dark kitchen, its two leads stretched, the empty reflector pan below it.
    from $165

    Electric cooktop element repair

    One zone dead, a zone stuck on full, or a radiant element that cycles far too quickly. On these cooktops the switch and the element fail about equally often, and there is a third candidate nobody thinks of: the receptacle a plug-in element sits in, which burns at the contacts and looks like a dead element from above.

    • Element, switch or receptacle — the third one is the one that gets missed
    • A zone stuck on full is a switch, and it gets attended to quickly
    • Radiant elements are tested cold, not by watching them glow
    What this involves
  • A cracked smooth black ceramic cooking top lifted clear of its counter opening and turned on edge against a padded blanket, the empty frame below showing FLAT RADIANT COIL ELEMENTS in their reflector pans.
    from $245

    Cooktop glass replacement

    A cracked or shattered ceramic top, usually from a dropped pan. The glass is replaceable and the price is mostly the part — but a crack is not only cosmetic: it lets liquid reach the elements and the switchgear underneath, so the assessment is of the whole appliance rather than the panel. A cracked top over a live element is not something to keep using.

    • Replaceable, and the price is mostly the glass
    • A crack lets liquid into the elements below — the assessment covers the whole appliance
    • Stop using it in the meantime: this one is a safety matter
    What this involves
  • The flat spiral of an induction coil under the lifted glass top of a cooktop, its ferrite bars and the board beside it, the glass propped clear.
    from $185

    Induction cooktop and range repair

    Twelve induction ranges and eight induction cooktops are current products under this badge, so induction here is ordinary work rather than an exotic call. Most of what gets reported as an induction failure turns out to be the cookware or a dirty surface sensor; the real failures are the cooling fan, the power board and the coil, and they behave quite differently from a radiant hob.

    • A real part of this catalog: 12 induction ranges and 8 cooktops
    • Most 'failures' are the pan or a dirty sensor, and we check those first
    • Fan, power board and coil are the genuine failures, and they announce themselves differently
    What this involves

Why the list leans cold

Half of this maker's catalog is refrigeration

One hundred and forty-two cabinets against nine current laundry machines, and the plain top-freezer alone is fifty-five — the largest family this maker has. So the jobs here are weighted the same way: defrost, evaporator fans, door seals, condensers and drains take more of this list than anything else, because that is what is behind the doors in this territory.

It is not the only reason. A single-evaporator cabinet fails in a particular way — the fresh-food side goes warm while the freezer looks fine — and that one behavior accounts for a large share of the calls we take on this badge.

Refrigerator not cooling
An open canvas tool roll on pale tile in a bright room, a flashlight, a nut driver and a multimeter laid out in it.

And one job its sisters do not have

Induction is ordinary work here

Twelve induction ranges and eight induction cooktops are current products under this badge. Several of the makes we work on build none at all, which is why induction has a page of its own rather than a paragraph inside the cooktop one.

Half of what arrives as an induction failure is not one — a pan that is not ferrous, a zone too large for the pot on it, a cooling fan that runs on after cooking. The page says which is which before anybody books.

Induction cooktop and range repair
Two gloved hands resting on an appliance service panel laid on a folded blanket, a screwdriver beside them, bright daylight, no face.

Before you book

Four things that shorten the visit

Have these to hand

  • The model and serial off the rating plate — the badge on the door is a trim level, not a machine, and three of them share one platform.
  • A photograph of whatever the panel is showing, taken before anybody cuts the power.
  • Roughly how old the appliance is. On this badge we open machines from two years old to twenty, and the age decides whether the conversation is a repair or a replacement.
  • Whether it is a rental or an association-managed unit, so the written findings go to whoever is paying.

Worth checking first

  • Whether the machine is level. It causes more washer calls here than any component.
  • Whether the appliance is locked rather than broken — control locks on cooktops and washers look exactly like a dead panel.
  • The condenser grille at floor level on anything that makes cold. In this climate it loads within a year or two.
  • For laundry, the vent run and the drain path before the machine itself.

Or start from the machine

By appliance instead

If you would rather begin from what it is than from what needs doing to it.

  • A white two-door top-freezer refrigerator standing at the end of a run of plain white builder cabinets in a bright condominium kitchen, freezer door above and fresh-food door below, plain flat handles.
    Top freezer · French door · side by side

    Refrigerators

    The deepest branch of this catalog by a distance: 142 cabinets, and the largest single family in everything Frigidaire currently sells is the plain top-freezer refrigerator — 55 of them. That number is the brand in one line. This is the refrigerator that came with the apartment, and half our calls are for a cabinet nobody chose. French door adds 44 and side-by-side 31, which is where the ice and water go wrong, and the two-cabinet compact and bottom-freezer families are small enough to name individually. In this climate the work concentrates on defrost, on door seals that never fully dry, and on condensers that live in salt air.

    • 142 cabinets across five layouts — top freezer is the biggest family in the catalog
    • French door and side-by-side bring the ice and water circuits most calls are about
    • Defrost, seals and condensers do most of the failing in South Florida
    Refrigerator repair
  • A single-door white upright freezer standing against a pale stucco garage wall beside a folded beach chair, its door closed, a concrete floor and bright daylight through an open roller door with palms and a driveway beyond.
    Upright · chest · single door

    Freezers

    Twenty-seven cabinets, and unusually for a volume brand the upright is the bigger half — 17 against three chest freezers and a small single-door family. In South Florida a standalone freezer usually lives in a garage or a utility room rather than a kitchen, which changes both what goes wrong and what a visit involves: ambient temperature well above what the cabinet was rated for, a condenser breathing dust, and a door that gets opened with wet hands in August. A freezer that is quietly running warm is the failure that costs the most, because nothing announces it until the food is gone.

    • 27 cabinets — 17 upright, three chest, the rest single-door
    • Most of them live in a garage, at an ambient the cabinet was never rated for
    • Running warm is the expensive failure: nothing tells you until the food does
    Freezer repair
  • The inside of a top-freezer compartment with its door open, a white plastic ice maker module mounted on the left wall with its wire shut-off arm in the down position and a clear bin of cubes below it.
    In the refrigerator · in the freezer door

    Ice makers

    This page is about the ice maker inside the refrigerator, because that is where Frigidaire puts them. The catalog has no undercounter ice cabinet at all — the standalone machines are three countertop appliances, and they have their own page. What we are called out for here is the module in a French door or side-by-side cabinet: no ice, hollow or half-formed cubes, a bin that has frozen into one block, or a dispenser that grinds and delivers nothing. The water side of that circuit — filter, valve, line — causes more of it than the module itself.

    • The module inside the refrigerator, which is where this make puts it
    • No ice, hollow cubes, a frozen bin and a dispenser that grinds — one circuit, four faces
    • The problem is on the water side more often than in the ice maker
    Ice maker repair
  • A small stainless countertop ice-making machine the size of a coffee maker standing on a light quartz counter with its top lid open, showing a shallow water reservoir and a basket of clear bullet-shaped ice.
    Countertop · portable · bullet ice

    Ice machines

    Three models, all of them countertop: a portable machine you fill from a jug that makes bullet ice in a few minutes. It is worth being exact about that, because the phrase 'ice machine' means an undercounter cabinet with a drain and a condenser on other makes in this trade, and Frigidaire builds none. These are small appliances with a pump, a compressor, an evaporator of steel fingers and a water reservoir, and they fail in small-appliance ways: scale, a pump that has lost prime, a sensor that thinks the basket is full.

    • Three countertop machines — this make builds no undercounter ice cabinet
    • Bullet ice from a filled reservoir, not a plumbed circuit
    • Scale, pump priming and the full-basket sensor cause most of it
    Ice machine repair
  • A narrow freestanding beverage and wine cooler with a single glass door and wire shelves of bottles lying flat, standing at the end of a light kitchen run against white cabinets.
    Beverage centers · wine storage

    Wine and beverage coolers

    Seven cabinets, and they are beverage centers and wine storage rather than the multi-zone cellars the luxury makes in this fleet sell. They go under a counter or into a bar run, they are usually glass-doored, and in South Florida they spend the year fighting the room: warm ambient, a glass door that gains heat, and a compressor sized for a small cabinet. The complaints follow from that — not holding temperature in the afternoon, condensation on the inside of the glass, a fan that has become loud.

    • Seven cabinets — beverage centers and wine storage, not multi-zone cellars
    • A glass door in a warm room is the whole thermal problem in one part
    • Not holding temperature, condensation and fan noise are the three calls
    Wine cooler repair
  • A stainless front-control dishwasher built into a white cabinet run with its door dropped open and both racks pulled out, plain white plates and glasses loaded, a stainless tub interior.
    Built-in · front control · plastic and stainless tub

    Dishwashers

    Thirty-six machines, from the plain front-control model that fills a builder's kitchen to the Gallery and Professional trims with a third rack. This is the appliance where the difference between series is smallest: the same platform, a different fascia and a quieter tub. What we attend is consistent because of that — not draining, not cleaning, not drying, and water where it should not be. The filter and the spray arms account for more of it than any electrical part does, which is why the first questions are about what is at the bottom of the tub.

    • 36 machines across three trims on much the same platform
    • Not draining, not cleaning, not drying, leaking — four complaints, one machine
    • The filter and the spray arms explain more calls than any board ever does
    Dishwasher repair
  • A white top-load washing machine standing in a bright laundry closet with its lid raised, showing an empty white plastic tub and a shallow impeller plate in the bottom.
    Top load · front load · laundry centers

    Washers

    The current catalog carries two top-load washers and three laundry centers, and that thinness is worth saying out loud: Frigidaire's laundry line today is a fraction of its kitchen line. What we open in South Florida is mostly older — front-loaders from the years the badge sold them in volume, top-loaders in condominium closets, and stacked laundry centers in apartments where nothing else fits. The failures are the ones that come with age and with this climate: bearings, seals that never dry, pumps that meet a lint load nobody clears, and drains that back up in a shared stack.

    • Nine current laundry machines in the whole catalog — two of them washers
    • Most of what we service is older, and stacked centers are normal in condominiums
    • Bearings, door seals, pumps and shared drains do the failing here
    Washer repair
  • A white front-loading vented dryer in a narrow laundry closet with its door swung open, an empty stainless drum inside and a flexible foil duct visible behind the machine going into the wall.
    Electric · gas · stacked centers

    Dryers

    Four dryers and three laundry centers in the current line, and every one of them vented — there is no heat-pump dryer under this badge. In South Florida the vent is most of the story: a duct that runs further than it should, through a wall into a corridor or up through a building, collecting lint at every bend. A dryer that takes two cycles to dry a load is almost never a broken dryer, and saying so before selling a part is the difference between a repair and a sale. The genuine problems, when they come, are the element or the burner, the thermostat and the cutout, the drum rollers and the belt.

    • Every dryer here is vented — no heat-pump machine under this badge
    • Long duct runs and lint explain more slow-drying calls than any part does
    • Element or burner, cutouts, rollers and belt are the real failures
    Dryer repair
All 11 appliances

Worth saying

Some of these end with us telling you not to book

A dishwasher that leaves plastics wet is drying by condensation and working exactly as designed. A washer showing CL has its control lock on. A dishwasher counting down from a number between one and twenty-four has a delay start somebody set by accident. None of those is a repair, and the pages say so rather than letting somebody pay to be shown a padlock symbol.

Call (305) 615-5496 Describe it in the form

Before you book

The questions this page is asked

Do you work on appliances this old?

Routinely. This badge is bought to be lived with rather than specified, so the machines we open are frequently older than the tenancy — and the parts channel behind them is the widest we work with, which is what makes an older machine worth keeping going.

My appliance is not on this list.

Call and describe it. Forty-six pages is what we have written up rather than what we take on, and a job that is not here is a gap in our writing.

Do you publish a final price anywhere?

No, and that is deliberate. Every figure on this site is a starting point; the exact cost is measured at your machine and agreed in writing before anything is opened.

In more detail

How this list was decided, and what is not on it

Weighted like the catalog, not like a price list

Forty-six jobs, and they lean the way this maker’s own range leans: a hundred and forty-two refrigeration cabinets against nine current laundry machines means defrost, fans, seals and drains take more of this list than anything else. Writing an even spread would have been tidier and less true.

Two types this maker sells and this site does not cover

Eighteen over-the-range microwaves and fifteen under-cabinet hoods are current products under this badge, and neither is covered here. That is a decision about the scope of this site rather than a gap in it, and saying so on the page is better than a silence somebody has to interpret.

What a starting figure is

Every number on these pages is a from. The diagnostic is from $89, credited toward the repair, and no final price is published anywhere on this site — the cost is measured at your machine and agreed in writing before anything is opened.

Tell us the model and what it is doing.

One line is usually enough for us to name the likely part before anybody sets off, and to say honestly when the answer is that nothing is wrong.

Schedule a visit Call (305) 615-5496

This article is based on:

  • Official manufacturer documentation
  • Internal repair procedures
  • Technician repair history
  • Company quality standards
Call (305) 615-5496